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Lined Tote Bag

A tote bag is the best first sewing project because every seam is straight, the shape is forgiving, and the finished object is genuinely useful. The boxed corner is the one technique worth practising on scrap first, because it is what turns two flat rectangles into a bag with a base.

Plan this project at my size -> The planner scales the material list and the time estimate to the size you want.

What it costs in materials

The quantities below are a basis, not a shopping list. Each one is stated per unit of the scale this project is measured in, and the planner multiplies it by the size you choose and adds your waste allowance. Where the quantity is 0 the item is a tool or a piece of equipment you either have or do not: a larger version of the same project does not need more of it.

Materials with their quantity basis
Material Quantity basis Notes
Outer fabric 0.06 yards per inch of width Medium weight cotton or canvas. At 16 inches this is under a yard, but add the height and the straps.
Lining fabric 0.04 yards per inch of width
Fusible interfacing 0.04 yards per inch of width Gives the bag body. Skip it and the bag collapses.
All-purpose thread 0.01 spools One spool is plenty for several bags.
Sewing machine needle Tool, not a quantity As needed A universal 80/12 for cotton, or 90/14 for canvas.

These figures do not include prices, on purpose. Material prices change by supplier, season and country, so the planner asks you to check them yourself rather than presenting an invented number as a fact. Scale this list to your size ->

How long it takes

Working time
0.2 hours

per in of width

Finishing
0.8 hours

Blocking, seaming, curing or mounting, on top of the working time

Example at 16 in
3.6 hours

The planner gives you this figure for whatever size you enter

These are estimates for someone working steadily, not for a first attempt at a new technique and not for a rushed one. Most people take longer on the first version and much less time on the third, which is why the planner also shows a stretch estimate about a quarter higher than the working figure.

Steps

  1. 1

    Cut the pieces

    Two outer panels, two lining panels and two strap strips. Add a half inch seam allowance to every edge when you cut.

  2. 2

    Apply the interfacing

    Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the outer panels with an iron, following the interfacing instructions. Do not drag the iron, press it.

  3. 3

    Make the straps

    Fold each strap strip in half lengthwise, press, open, fold the raw edges to the centre, press again, then topstitch both long edges.

  4. 4

    Sew the outer bag

    With right sides together, sew the side and bottom seams of the outer panels. Clip the corners rather than cutting them off.

  5. 5

    Box the corners

    Open each bottom corner into a triangle so the side and bottom seams line up, then sew across at your chosen depth. This is what gives the bag a flat base.

  6. 6

    Assemble and finish

    Sew the lining the same way, leaving a turning gap. Put the outer bag inside the lining, right sides together, pin the top edge, sew all round, then turn through the gap and topstitch.

Skills you will practise

  • straight seams
  • seam allowance
  • pressing
  • boxed corners
  • bagging a lining

If any of these are new to you, work them on scrap first. Practising a technique on the real piece is how an afternoon turns into a week.

Tips

  • Press every seam as you sew it. Pressing is what separates a homemade looking bag from a made looking bag.
  • Use a denim or leather needle if you are sewing canvas. A universal needle will deflect and skip stitches.
  • Backstitch at the start and end of the strap seams. That is where a bag fails first.

Tools for this project

Work out the quantities before you buy anything. Each tool shows its formula and its assumptions.

Guides

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