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Seam Allowance Calculator

Add a seam allowance to a finished measurement to get the cut size, and work back from a cut size to the finished size it produces.

Getting the seam allowance wrong is the most common way to finish a garment that does not fit, and the error is easy to make because it applies twice to every measurement: once at each edge. This calculator works in both directions, turning a finished size into a cut size and a cut size back into a finished size, and shows how much fabric the seams consume.

At a glance

What you enter
Finished width, Finished length, Seam allowance, How many edges take the allowance, Cut width you already have
What you get
Cut width to mark and cut, Cut length to mark and cut, Finished width, Share lost to seams, Difference from your target
Formula shown
Yes, every step, right below your results.
Cost and privacy
Free, no account needed, and nothing you type is stored.

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What you want the piece to measure once it is sewn.

5/8 in on a commercial pattern, 1/4 in for quilt piecing, 3/8 in for an overlocked seam.

How many edges take the allowance

Fill this in to work backwards from a cut size. Leave at zero to use the finished width above.

Reset

Results are estimates for general information only, always verify with a professional or official source before acting on them.

How to use the Seam Allowance Calculator

  1. 1 Enter Finished width (in), What you want the piece to measure once it is sewn.
  2. 2 Enter Finished length (in)
  3. 3 Enter Seam allowance (in), 5/8 in on a commercial pattern, 1/4 in for quilt piecing, 3/8 in for an overlocked seam.
  4. 4 Enter How many edges take the allowance
  5. 5 Enter Cut width you already have (in), Fill this in to work backwards from a cut size. Leave at zero to use the finished width above.
  6. 6 Press Calculate. You get Cut width to mark and cut, Cut length to mark and cut, Finished width, Share lost to seams, Difference from your target, and every intermediate step stays visible under "How is this calculated?"
  7. 7 Change one number at a time to see what moves the result, that is usually the most useful thing a calculator can tell you.

Worked examples

Real numbers run through this calculator. Open any example to load it into the form above and change it.

A bodice panel with two side seams

A 20 inch finished width at 5/8 inch seam allowance, with a seam at each side.

You enter

Finished width
20 in
Finished length
30 in
Seam allowance
0.63 in
How many edges take the allowance
2
Cut width you already have
0 in

You get

Cut width to mark and cut
21.25 in
Cut length to mark and cut
31.25 in
Finished width
20.00 in
Share lost to seams
9.6%
Difference from your target
0.0%

Cut 21 1/4 inches wide, not 20 5/8, because the allowance applies at both edges.

Open this example in the calculator โ†’

Working back from a cut panel

You have a 21.5 inch wide panel and want to know what it finishes at with a 5/8 inch seam.

You enter

Finished width
20 in
Finished length
30 in
Seam allowance
0.63 in
How many edges take the allowance
2
Cut width you already have
21.50 in

You get

Cut width to mark and cut
21.50 in
Cut length to mark and cut
31.25 in
Finished width
20.25 in
Share lost to seams
9.6%
Difference from your target
1.3%

Two seams take 1 1/4 inches, so the finished width is 20 1/4 inches.

Open this example in the calculator โ†’

Frequently asked questions

How do I add seam allowance to a pattern piece?
Add the allowance to every edge that will be sewn, and check how many edges each measurement crosses. A width spanning two side seams takes two allowances, so a 20 inch finished panel at 5/8 inch is cut at 21 1/4 inches. Edges that sit on a fold, or that are bound with bias tape, take nothing.
What seam allowance do commercial patterns use?
Most commercial patterns use 5/8 inch for garment seams, and 1/4 inch for quilt piecing. Some independent designers use 3/8 inch, and a few draft with no allowance at all so you add your own. This is the first thing to check on a new pattern, because assuming 5/8 inch when the pattern uses 3/8 inch changes every measurement by a quarter inch on each seam.
Does seam allowance affect the finished size of a quilt?
Yes, and more than people expect. A quilt with a hundred seams across it loses 1/4 inch at each one, so the finished quilt is 25 inches narrower than the sum of the cut widths of its pieces. That is why quilts are drafted with a consistent 1/4 inch seam and why an accurate quarter inch foot matters more than almost anything else.
How do I work out how much to let out a seam?
A seam can normally be let out by the amount of the original allowance, which is 5/8 inch on a commercial pattern, giving 5/8 inch of extra circumference per seam. If you need an inch more across the chest, you need half an inch on the front panel and half on the back, which is within what a 5/8 inch side seam can give. Check that the seam is not already trimmed or topstitched before you rely on it.

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Terms used here

Short, plain-language definitions of the words this calculator uses.

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